Huckleberry's Maple-Bacon Biscuits

They have maple. And bacon. They're reasonably flaky, with a deftness one doesn't often see in things of this sort. Zoe Nathan is stepping up as the pastry chef of her generation in Los Angeles, coming out of a time and place where every apple tart was rustic, every croissant unglazed, every fruit from the farmers market, every pastry dashed with an appropriate lick of salt. And did I mention the bacon? Huckleberry, 1014 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica. (310) 451-2311.