L.A. Area's New Pizza Revolution
By S. Irene Virbila, Restaurant Critic
March 25, 2009
LOS ANGELES TIMES
If you go by the most basic definition of pizza -- bread with a garnish -- the flatbread that Zoe Nathan turns out at Huckleberry, her month-old Santa Monica bakery, definitely qualifies. OK, she doesn't have a wood-burning oven, which makes it even more remarkable what she does with a regular deck oven. I suspect her secret is to lavish the dough with olive oil, which crisps and caramelizes the edges beautifully. She features a different flatbread every day: I loved one topped with kale, onions and raisins. Another day, it might be potato and onion, or zucchini blossoms, or even sprouting broccoli. You basically get a 6-inch-by-6-inch slab of heaven. To go or eat in.
Huckleberry Cafe and Bakery, 1014 Wilshire Blvd.; 310-451-2311 or huckleberrycafe.com